An End & A Beginning
Concluding Chapter
Chewore Safari Journal
After
lunch back at camp, Nickie and I relaxed, read a little, and
socialized with camp manager Sharon. Our
hunting was through, and Wil busied himself with the paperwork.
It was mid-afternoon when
the skinners brought the fleshed and boiled skulls of our trophies with horns
attached and arranged them in a display on the lawn against the backdrop of
the Chenje. The men stood proudly at
parade rest behind the array, feet spread and hands clasped low behind their
backs. The skulls were brilliant white
as if they had been baking under the sun of some desert for years, and the
horns were dark black and cleaned of the dirt from the bush. The skinners—rugged, scruffy appearing men
compared with our starched and pressed waiters—wore wrinkled shorts and stained
T-shirts. Still it was an impressive
sight and a statement on the tough, strong people of the Zambezi Valley. We snapped some photos, then Nickie and I
posed with the trophies while Sharon took a few more.
We had an early dinner, a fine and fitting feast for our last night in camp. We were to leave early the next morning to meet our pilot, Ahmad, at the Chenje airstrip and board the Centurion for our flight to Victoria Falls. Nickie and I went to our tent immediately following our meal to finish packing.
Nickie was efficiently
fitting our belongings into our duffel bags as only she can. I had finished cleaning my rifle and was
stowing it and the supplies in a hard, secure travel case.
“It's still unbelievable
how well we did,” I said. “The entire
thing was just outstanding.”
“It was a fine safari. I'm so glad it was successful for you.”
“Did you really have a
great time? You seem sort of lukewarm.”
“Everything we saw and
experienced was wonderful. It's just
that it was a little hard on me physically.”
“Seeing that lion hunched on the riverbank only yards away was a highpoint,” I said. “I'm sorry it was rugged at times. I know it's not the Ritz. Thanks for putting up.”
“The heat was oppressive,
and the walking before I was banished.
The worst was being crushed in the middle of that truck bench seat
between you and Wil. It wasn't built for
three. And when I sat in the open, up in
the back, I was always getting swatted by low-hanging brush. The pounding for hours on those excuses for
roads may have actually been the worst.
My back is still sore.”
“I know. I'm still nursing my blisters and missing toenail.”
“And Wil was
insufferable. He talks to himself, you
know. I could see his lips moving and
hear the whispers as we were driving around.”
I hadn't noticed, but still
had to laugh.
“And he was so rude out in
the bush. Charming and talkative back at
camp, but a different man when we were hunting.
I didn't like the way he treated us at all. I hope you're not going to give him a tip.”
“It got better near the
end,” I said. “Sort of. And I can't believe his knowledge and work
ethic. He's the most focused and
goal-oriented soul I've ever met. The
results were incredible. What a safari!”
“Still … I think he was
unprofessional. We were paying him, not
the other way around. I don't think he
should get anything more from us.”
“Honestly, Wil was part of
the challenge and excitement. For me,
it made everything all the more satisfying.
His peculiarities were beyond interesting and added to the uniqueness of
the entire experience. And with his background—the
heir apparent to a profitable farm, the boss man even as a teen—I'm sure I
couldn't help being a little bitter myself if all that was taken through no
fault of mine. His behavior in the field
is simply all he knows.”
“Well … just so you know, this is my last hunting trip,”
Nickie said. “It was wonderful and
all. But like we talked about when I
agreed to come with you, next time we'll go to an all-inclusive resort in the
Caribbean for our vacation.”
“We had talked about an
Alaska bear hunt instead of coming here.
There's always that still out there.”
“Pleeeeeze…”
“I'm just saying.”
“It was either-or, never
both.”
I recalled what Sharon had
said a few days ago at dinner. Our clients come to take an elephant, a
leopard, or a lion only once. But they
come back for buffalo. There was
that to think about, too. Maybe … just
maybe …
Nickie continued packing, and I made up the envelopes for the gratuities. I expressed my appreciation by giving no less than the already generous amounts recommended by our booking agent. There was Levitt, the middle-aged and getting-thick-in-the-waist tracker, tireless and skilled, the man who could not do enough for me. “Gun, Boss …” holding out his hand to relieve me of my burden during a particularly long and hard trek. I placed something extra in his envelope. And, of course, the game ranger, Gibson. Then there were Sharon and Jerry, the camp managers who had made our stay wonderful in every way, who had become genuine friends. The kitchen staff—waiters, cooks, clean-up—the outstanding meals, they all received something extra. And Wil? I placed the full recommended amount in his envelope, but no more in his case. His talents had resulted in a remarkable take of game, but his poor communications skills, rudely critical behavior, and absence of coaching cost him what would otherwise have been an additional several hundred dollars, not a small sum in the austere Zimbabwean economy.
As Nickie was going through
her nightly ritual of preparing for bed, I had a chance to reflect on the
entire safari experience. I'd heard it
said Africa could be life changing for a Westerner. I hadn't truly understood the import of those
words, but I did then. It's a simple
concept that everything has a beginning and an end. And the end of a thing, especially if it was
good, marks a beginning for something else.
It's the most basic of ideas, but one that is fully grasped only by
humans, and it is the basis of all religions, for man's unique capacity to plan
and design, for our dominion over the world's animals, and for civilization
itself. And I saw in that moment, at the
end of our safari, I was a changed man.
The African bush and its animals had transfigured and resurrected
me. I knew, going forward, the end of
this safari would mark the beginning of a new and better chapter in my life—in
our lives. And I understood that Africa
had awarded me another chance at wholeness, however brief or enduring it may
prove to be.
Nickie had completed her
preparations, performing a few final tasks before getting into bed. She was cheerfully humming a familiar popular
tune, one I recognized well. I could tell
she was feeling happy and carefree, too.
“Are you going to be coming
to bed?” she asked. “They'll be shutting
off the generator anytime.”
I liked to act silly with
her when we were both feeling lighthearted.
I liked to make her smile. I
stood in front of her and placed my hands on her shoulders.
“Today, while the blossom still clings to the vine
…” It was what she had been humming. “I'll
taste your strawberries, I'll drink your sweet wine.” I sang in my awful monotone, exaggerating it
to be comical.
“You didn't give Wil a tip, did
you?”
“What I did is invited him to
come visit over Thanksgiving,” I said.
I liked to rattle her chain a bit.
“You're not the least bit amusing.”
“He'll only stay through New
Year's. Or Easter at the latest.”
“You think you're funny, but
you're not.”
“I'll be a dandy and I'll be a rover,” I droned. “I'll
feast at your table…I'll sleep in your clover…” I could never hit a note or carry a
melody.
“Aren't you the flirty one,
though.” She got in bed and put out the
side-table light. The overhead
controlled only by the generator was still lit.
I crawled in beside her.
“It's really been a fine
experience.” She changed the
subject. “I truly mean that. I'm glad we did this.”
I continued my little song,
singing the refrain once more, teasing her, lying close beside her, turning on
one side to face her. “Today while the blossom still clings to the
vine … I'll taste your strawberries, I'll drink your sweet wine.”
“Don't you be getting any big
ideas, Buster. The staff is still going
about their business just outside.”
“For the love of God, don't be ridiculous. I'm seventy and still not over my last surgery. Come on!” I didn't mention the end of our safari heralded yet a new beginning. I'd tell her about that later.
The
generator spun down and died with a rough cough. The faint illumination from the hanging light
faded away with it. I turned on my
elbow, my face above hers only inches away.
It was dark inside the tent, with not even the light from a moon just
beginning its rise or perhaps only forming the slightest crescent yet visible.
“I can't be contented with yesterday's glory.” I barely whispered it, not even trying to
sing. “Today is my moment and now is my story.” I hadn't realized I remembered so much of the
lyrics.
“I can't wait to see Victoria
Falls,” she said, ignoring my
shenanigans.
“It'll be great. And, maybe when we're home, we can at least
talk about the Alaska thing again.” I
knew I was pushing it, but her mood was fine.
“PUH-leeeeze!”
She was lying on her back, the sheet pulled to her chin. I knew her eyes were open, but in the dark of our tent I couldn't make out any colors at all. Yet I remembered from long experience their dazzling, unique hazel with little flecks of green, bronze, and brilliant gold. Even in the dark, I could see their colors in my mind's eye. And I could sense the warmth radiating from her face and the moistness of her mouth, as any man does when very near a woman to whom he is deeply drawn.
“A million tomorrows shall all pass away …” I was singing softly once again. Barely audibly. Nickie was still.
“… 'ere we forget …” I moved
close to see that she was still awake, then kissed her on the lips. Once again, only fleetingly, I considered our
safari, our shared experience, and the new beginning I was sure it portended.
“… all the joys … that are ours …..
today …..”
___________________________________
Read Chewore Safari Journal and eighteen other stories in John Bascom's book, Beneath a Hunter's Sky, available of Amazon
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